A sneak into the past.. Alamparai Fort

So often these days I am spaced out and my mind and heart just want to get away into the unknown sans any planning, ticketing, hotel reservations or packing. It was on one such Saturday noon that I steered the car out of the parking lot without a concrete plan and then, when we (Yes, I did go with the husband!) hit the East Coast Road (ECR) decided to head to a lesser known destination, a place on my "To see around Chennai" list, the Alamparai fort.

                                                                    pic courtesy: Archaeology department

Nestled mid way between Mahabalipuram on the North and Pondicherry to its south, around 100 kms from Chennai, the ruins of Alamparai Fort (historical references to Alampara/Alambara/Alambarai, Alampuravi/Alamparva) lie near Kadapakkam, a tiny fishing hamlet on the Coromandel coast.

According to the Department of Archaeology, Tamil Nadu, the Alamparai fort was built during the 17^th Century A.D and was under the control of the Nawab of Carnatic, Doste Ali khan between 1736 A.D and 1740 A.D. The fort, used as a garrison in the war between the French and the British, was spread over 15 acres and had a dockyard through which the Arcot Nawabs exported Zari clothes, salt and ghee. The region was then also famous for the Alamparai Kasu / Varahan, i.e. the coins minted. In 1750 A.D. the fort was gifted to the French for services rendered by Dupleix to Subedar Muzarfarzang. Around 1760, when the British defeated the French the former took over and destroyed major parts of the fort.

                                                                              pic courtesy: Archaeology department

As we traversed our way from ECR to the fort, we passed the many clusters of buildings of Rotary Club, East West club and other charity organizations and its when we learnt that the 2004 tsunami wreaked its havoc on this hamlet.

We parked the car and as we wondered which way to go, a little sign post by the Archaeological Department beckoned us toward the entrance, telling us the story of the fort. The front wall still stands strong with towers at each end but as we entered, we were in for a disappointment. The original square shaped fort was built of bricks and lime mortar but what remains today after the wars and the tsunami are dilapidated remains of a bygone era. All the walls of the fort are covered with weeds and overgrown shrubs.

The view and sounds of the sea called us toward her and we headed immediately towards the eastern side of the fort. As we climbed the stairs to approach what could have been a watch tower and looked out, we knew we came to the right place to recover our sanity. The views were breathtaking. Beneath, the backwaters kissed the calm sea and we stood enthralled watching fishing boats return to the port with their catch and soaking in the gentle cool sea breeze.

Unwilling to get down from there but forced to due to the overcast skies, we went towards the backwaters for a quick “leg dip” but succumbed to the temptation of a boat ride across the backwaters to the beach. The ride itself was short, just under five minutes, but so worth it. We had arrived at a secret virgin beach! Well, atleast I’d like to believe so, considering we were the only two souls for miles together on a Saturday evening!!

With the clouds looming large over the horizon, we turned back and nature had a surprise. in store too! Not one but two rainbows to end the perfect day at the French fort.

How to get there:

Kadapakkam village lies 50 kms from Mamallapuram, en-route to Pondicherry on East Coast Road. At the village bazaar, there is a sign board on the left for “Alambara fort”, where you have to turn east / take a left. Continue on this narrow winding road for around 2.5 kms till you cross a bridge and spot a temple on the left. A few yards after the temple, the road forks into two directions. The road towards the left leads to the fishing hamlet and sea. The road towards the right leads to the Alamparai fort and the backwaters.

Accommodation:

There are no hotels / resorts at Alamparai. The nearest accommodation/stop over would be at Mamallapuram or Pondicherry

Food

Carry along a picnic basket if you plan to visit this place.